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Nico by Nico at Molesworth Place in Dublin offers six-course fun. Photography: Tom Hornan

It was a humid Tuesday night. Six by Nico had officially opened. Rows of diners were waiting in the rain for the earlier table to be turned, and the bags clinked. There is no performance. This happens when your wine license is late and you emailed that it was BYOB for the first few days and did not open the bottle.

I saw four hospitable people on a table with enviable wine bottles, and every artificial marble table in the room seemed to have this kind of sight.

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