Pulled pork and side dishes from a distant relative in Austin

Austin's distant relatives barbecue trailer

Distant relative's porridge

Distant relative of okra corn grits

Austin's distant relatives barbecue trailer

The history of Texas barbecue, like today's most complex topic, has been shortened and simplified so that it can be easily understood by consumers of sound clips and tweet conditions.

Regarding the two most prominent types of Texas barbecue, the Mid-Texas style originated in the meat market opened in the mid-1800s by Czech, German, and Polish immigrants in the area around Austin. The East Texas style originated in the southern United States in the mid-1700s, when enslaved Africans adopted techniques learned from Native Americans.

In terms of compressed history, these narratives provide a reliable account of the history of Texas barbecue. But what happens when you scratch below the surface?

Much has been written about the history of Central Texas style barbecue. So much so that "Texas BBQ" is now most often associated with this style.

Scorched ends and black eyed peas in Austin's distant relatives

The East Texas style and its barbecue history that originated in the southern United States is often forgotten, although with the publication of Adrian Miller's authoritative book "Black Smoke: African American and American Barbecue", This situation has changed this year.

The East Texas style is still very popular in Houston, reflecting the evolution it has experienced over the past few decades, ironically using the Central Texas style brisket as the main menu item.

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But what if you want to really taste the origins of barbecue that existed in states like Virginia and North Carolina in the 1700s? Until recently, this was not possible in Texas, where the barbecue menu dominated sirloin and ribs.

At While Brewing, 3901 Promontory Point Dr., Austin

Open from Wednesday to Sunday; remoteelativesatx.com

This changed in February when chef Damien Brockway opened the Distant Relatives barbecue trailer in East Austin, where he introduced ingredients and techniques used from genealogy and historical research to incorporate his own African-American heritage.

Brockway is a classically trained chef who has worked in fine dining restaurants in San Francisco, New York and Boston. He came to Austin in 2012 and most recently served as executive chef at Jester King Brewery.

Like many hotel workers, the 2020 COVID lockdown gave people time to engage in more personal pursuits, and Brockway's research on his own genealogy showed that his mother's family came from slaves in Virginia, and they ultimately came from West Africa.

This leads to an in-depth understanding of the cuisine of countries such as Nigeria, Cameroon and Mali.

"This area of ​​West Africa is called the'Pepper Coast'," Brockway said. "We decided to use a kind of pepper called'Paradise Grain'."

The menu of the Austin Distant Barbecue Trailer

This is an ingenious modification of the traditional black pepper-wrapped Central Texas style, with a more fragrant floral spice, and its flavor closer to cardamom and ginger.

Regarding meat, Brockway only recently added sirloin based on customer needs—this is Austin after all—but the real magic happens in his other proteins, such as pulled pork. The pork shoulder is moist, cooked very well, and has a more fragrant and more complex friction than the typical salt and pepper version you find at many barbecue shops in Texas. It is served with molasses sauce.

Side dishes are also the focus here, based on staple foods of the southern United States, including beans, rice and corn. "Scorched Head and Black Eyed Peas" is one of the best barbecue side dishes I have had throughout the year-it can almost be a complete meal. Black-eyed peas cooked with fragrant spices (think allspice and nutmeg) are combined with the smoky ends of the lean meat.

Together with junior sous chef Wesley Robinson and assistant pitmaster Omari Mackey, Brockway created something unique in the Texas barbecue that goes beyond the classic trinity of sirloin, ribs and sausage. They provide a delicious window into the African-American origins of Lone Star State’s favorite cuisine.

JC Reid was born in Beaumont, graduated from the University of Southern California with a major in architecture, and worked as an architect in New York City in his early years. He returned to Texas in 1995 and retired from the construction industry, but founded his own Internet business in Houston. As his business became self-sufficient, he began traveling in Houston and around the world to pursue his passion: eating barbecue.

He started blogging about food and barbecue for the Houston Chronicle in 2010, and founded the Houston Barbecue Project in 2011 to document barbecue restaurants throughout the region. Just last year, Reid and others founded the Houston Barbecue Festival to showcase the city’s mom-and-pop barbecue restaurants. The 2014 event attracted 2,000 guests to taste meat from 20 restaurants.

You can view more of JC's work on jcreidtx.com.

In many parts of Texas, the clergy house, known as the vicarage, is a luxurious manor house located in the most unique enclave in the state. But unlike their wealthy neighbors, they do not pay any taxes.

Authors: Eric Dexheimer, Jay Rutte, Stephanie Lahm