Nikkei-style dishes at Causita include three steamed baos filled with beets or pork belly. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

If you have been reading my column for the past 13 years, you know that Ricardo Zarate is one of my favorite chefs in L.A. What he brings to each restaurant is a multi-sensory story about his home country, Peru. His newest tale is Nikkei-style share plates and dishes at Causita, near Silver Lake’s Sunset Triangle Plaza. It’s the third concept by Intent to Dine Hospitality Group, co-led by industry veteran David Rosoff. Causita joins its recently opened sister concepts, Bar Moruno and Rapid.

Eager to reunite with Zarate at his new restaurant, my husband and I dined last Friday evening, just after its grand opening. “Nikkei” is a word referring to people from around the world who have Japanese heritage but do not live in Japan. In the late 1800s, when a large group of Japanese people immigrated 9,000 miles to Peru, they brought staples such as miso, ginger, soy, wasabi and rice vinegar with them. Zarate adds these to Peruvian ingredients such as tropical fish, quinoa, potatoes, corn and peppers for a beautiful blend of brightly bold and subtle flavors. Nikkei cooking also incorporates Italian and Chinese ingredients that Zarate uses in his dishes.

Sitting inside the former Sawyer restaurant space, we noted the redesign by Studio UNLTD, creating a bright, breezy dining room and lush exterior patio with a fire. Light wood furniture and clean lines are similar to an upscale Japanese sushi house, yet the plaster walls, abundance of greenery and brightly colored artwork give nods to Peru. There is a colorful knotted macrame-style quipu by Peruvian artist Rudolph Castro, showing a union between Peruvian and Japanese culture. Peruvian statuettes thought to bring good fortune, positive vibes and protection are strategically placed throughout the back bar. Also near the bar is a blend painting of the Japanese and Peruvian flags.

Tables are set with beautiful chopsticks and silverware, offering diners a choice as each course comes out of the kitchen and is delivered to the table.

Looking over the exciting cocktail list developed by Ramsey Musk (The Proper Hotel Group, Ma’am Sir, Sotto), there is an emphasis on pisco, agave spirits, rum and Japanese whiskey. Since Peru is known for the Pisco Sour cocktail, the bar makes one with lychee and lime-yuzu sour and a touch of absinthe. Pisco is a type of brandy native to South America, and the bar makes a playful Pucara pisco punch and an “Oh Captain, My Captain” cocktail that has pisco and carrot-coconut caviar.

The wine list is just like the one at its adjacent sister restaurant, Bar Moruno, focusing on organic and biodynamic bottles from across the globe, with a spotlight on Latin American selections. When diners order a glass of wine, the servers bring a sample for a tasting. If they are not satisfied, diners can order another varietal and receive a new tasting.

There are also two different types of Japanese sakes, and their beer on tap is the local Frogtown Brewery IPA. Another beer available by bottle or can is Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale from Japan.

Two ladies sitting next to us were oohing and awing over a cocktail named “Girl from Lobitos,” so I told our server from Cusco, Peru, that I wanted one. The photo-worthy drink has a pineapple leaf garnish and a tall crown of shiso foam. Its flavor notes included passionfruit, ginger and lime.

My husband said the pink Mamalucha margarita was a winner with its Yerba mate salt along the rim. Besides tequila blanco, it has a splash of Cointreau, prickly pear juice and kumquat.

While sipping our drinks, I remarked about how much I liked the eclectic music at the restaurant. Like every good storyteller, music enhances an adventurous tale. The name Causita is slang for “Best Friend,” and the music is a fusion of sounds and styles drawing on the country’s Andean, Spanish and African roots.

My toes were tapping in excitement when the two lobster dumplings arrived. Picking up one with the chopsticks, I bit into vibrant flavors of succulent pieces of lobster inside a glistening, slightly-charred dumpling. It’s pan-fried with a splash of jalapeño oil and topped with white ceviche aioli and a pretty edible flower petal.

Another dish that surprised us was the trio of Nikkei nigiri-style sushi on a lovely light pink circular plate. Three thin cucumber ribbons had a slice of soft potato, instead of traditional sushi rice. In Peru, there are over 4,000 colorful varieties of native potatoes growing in the Andean highlands. We were instructed to pick up both ends of the cucumber slices and bite into the salmon enhanced with preserved lemon, yuzu and ahi amarillo. Another nigiri had tomato with rocoto pepper aioli and seaweed salt. The third was tuna with truffle aioli and rocoto pepper, offering a touch of heat and flavor. Each were adorned with a micro green sprig to balance the sea and earth flavors.

For a vegetable dish, Zarate takes a generous handful of green snap peas, slightly blistered and charred in jalapeño oil. He tops them on a mound of cool and creamy white labneh, adding chopped mint and crispy garlic chips. I could easily eat a bowl every day.

Another winner was the three delicately steamed white bao buns filled with a choice of beets or pork belly and topped with a gochujang sauce for a boldly sweet, slightly spicey, and full-umami flavor. Zarate adds parmesan cheese for a touch of Italy and rocoto sauce to bring Peru into this dish.

We finished with a sea bass tamale and bowl of soba noodles, and each impressed us in presentation and flavors when delivered to our table. The sea bass tamale arrived on two folded green banana leaves. The moist fish had choclo corn and lime aioli on top. Peruvian choclo corn is different from North American corn-on-the-cob. It’s not as sweet, and the kernels are larger, with a nutty flavor. The soba noodles arrived in a shallow bowl without broth. The noodles were swirled with a fabulous cilantro and mint pesto, and topped with asparagus and tiny, crunchy lime green Tobiko wasabi flying fish roe. This delightful caviar is a popular addition to Japanese cuisine, and provides a natural sea essence, light tanginess and touch of heat from wasabi horseradish.

I wish I could have tasted every item on the menu. The clams looked beautiful on a plate marinating in leche de tigre, as did the grilled octopus delivered to the ladies seated next to us. My friend Linda dined with her son the night after, and told me that the roasted chicken with bell peppers and almond pesto was superb.

Desserts range from refreshing, light Peruvian purple corn sorbet to the denser matcha cheesecake served with a passionfruit chantilly sauce and pickled purple and red berries. The churro bombs are similar to doughnut holes on top of a bright red cranberry sauce for dipping.

Zarate shares his new culinary chapter of food, drinks, music and ambiance at Causita, and to me, this is his best story yet.

Make a reservation on Resy soon. Weekend evenings are filling up, but weekdays are still available from 5-10 p.m. causita-la.com. $$ 3709 Sunset Blvd.

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